As seen in The Antique Shoppe Newspaper, September 2005,  


Many American Tea carts were produced during the Depression Era as "novelty" items so that furniture companies had some small items to sell. (Swedberg photo)

Q. I am refinishing a mahogany stand from the early 1900's. I have read a great deal about finishing but I am confused about filling. Everything I read says the mahogany should be "filled" but I don't know what to fill it with. The stores have a confusing variety of wood fillers and patching material. Is this what is meant by filling the mahogany?. It doesn't have any holes or dings in it so why does it need filling?

A. Your problem is defining the difference between fill and filler. Most people think of patching a hole when they think of filling but filling mahogany (and walnut and rosewood) means to fill up the open grain of the wood, not repair a hole or defect. These woods have very deep grain patterns and it is difficult to get a smooth, glass like finish on them without filling the grain. For this purpose you use a product known as "paste wood filler" which is very different from fill. Paste wood filler is usually a thick oil based product the consistency of peanut butter, made of a mix of a binder like linseed oil and a body such as very finely crushed rock. This mixture is applied to the entire surface of the wood and then removed with a rough cloth like burlap, leaving a great deal of the mixture down in the grain of the wood. When it dries it is almost as hard as the wood and the finish is applied over it. This gives the smooth finish found on traditional mahogany as opposed to the "open grain" look of oak.

There are newer paste wood fillers on the market now - some are water based, which makes clean up a great deal easier  and some are lacquer or solvent based which speeds up the entire process by several days. Filling takes a great deal of work and is fairly difficult but the results are worth the effort.

Q. I need to repair my set of dining room chairs but I am unsure of how to do one thing. The chairs were made in the 1950's and they are screwed together I am quite sure. I just need to tighten the screws but I can't get to them because they are all concealed under wooden plugs. I tried to remove one with a screwdriver but damaged it so badly I had to just throw it away. Is there a neat clean way to remove those plugs or are they just disposable?

A. Even though there are screws in your chairs, they probably are glued together as well. In some manufacturing processes, the screws are used to hold the joints while the glue dries. Its faster and less labor intensive than using clamps. Just be prepared to do some gluing as well as tightening screws. Removing plugs and buttons is an iffy thing but there is a way that is better than most. Drill a 3/32 inch hole in the center of the button or plug. Then drive a #8 sheet metal screw or dry wall screw into the hole until it touches the concealed head of the screw. Use a pair of diagonal cutting pliers (dykes) and a wooden block as a fulcrum to pry the screw out of the wood. The plug will come out before the wood gives in, usually. If the screw strips out of the plug try a bigger screw. If that still doesn't work just be prepared to drill out the plug and replace it.

Q. I have seen some very fancy chairs offered at auction called Belter chairs. Why are they called that? Is that a style or someone's name or a place? They always seem to sell for a lot of money.

A. John Henry Belter was one of America's most famous cabinetmakers. Born in Germany in 1804, he came to New York in 1844 where he opened a cabinet shop and continued in business in various locations in Manhattan until his death in 1863. He was an innovator in the new technique of lamination even though he almost certainly did not invent the process. He probably learned it in home region of the Black Forest in Germany. The layering of strips of wood with alternating grain pattern gave a great deal of strength to the wood, allowing much more elaborate decorations and carvings than had been done previously. Belter worked in the middle of the Victorian era and most of his work was done the Rococo Revival style, reminiscent of 17th and 18th century French court stylings. When Belter died his brothers-in-law, the Springmeyers, continued his business until 1867 when it went into bankruptcy.

Visit Fred's website at www.furnituredetective.com


Fred Taylor's new book "HOW TO BE A FURNITURE DETECTIVE" is now available for $18.95 plus $2.00 S & H. Send check or money order for $20.95 to Fred Taylor, PO Box 215, Crystal River, FL 34423.

Fred and Gail Taylor's video, "IDENTIFICATION OF OLDER & ANTIQUE FURNITURE", ($29.95 includes S & H) is also available at the same address. For more information call (800) 387-6377, fax (352) 563-2916, or e-mail fmtaylor@aol.com.


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