
As seen in The Antique Shoppe Newspaper, April 2005,
Q. My upright piano is at least 100 years old according to a friend. I looked all over it and couldn't find a date, just the name Winter & Co and a number, 21,987. Can you tell me how old it really is? Also my friend said it will be worth more if it is overstrung instead of straight strung. What does that mean?
A. According to the Pierce Piano Atlas, Winter & Co was founded in New York in 1899 and was later owned by Aeolian Corp of Memphis, TN in the 1970's. Aeolian is no longer in business. Your friend was almost right about the age. Your piano was manufactured in 1908. The term "overstrung" refers to the arrangement of the bass strings in the piano. If all the strings are parallel it is said to be straight strung. If the bass strings are strung at an angle in the case, crossing over the other strings, it is "overstrung". This arrangement allows the bass strings to be longer than would otherwise be possible and thus yields a better sound. Overstrung pianos generally have a higher value than straight strung pieces, all other things being equal.
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Q. I have a couple of old Victorian era walnut chairs that I rescued from a garage sale. They need lots of repair and they need recaning but the real problem is the missing pieces. From pictures I have seen the chairs are supposed to have a curved sort of brace that attaches to the seat and the back and gives the chair support. I can see the outlines of the old pieces and there are screw holes in the right places. Does anyone make these pieces for sale or do I have to have them custom made?
A. The pieces you are missing are called "hip rests" or "hip huggers". While each 19th century manufacturer had his own designs and specifications, hip rests fall into two basic categories. The simpler of the two was the later development. It is simply a bent wooden shaft, curved at a more or less 90 degree angle from top to bottom and attached with a screw or a "T" bracket to the seat and back. The earlier fancier hip rests curved from top to bottom and also had a bow shape laterally as well to accommodate round anatomy parts. These were often carved or incised with decorative themes and attached to the back stiles and seat of the chair with concealed screws. Both types of hip rests as well as the "T" brackets are available from Van Dyke's Restorers at 800-558-1234 or online at www.vandykes.com. or at www.richmond-restore.com
Q. I have a set of not real old and not real valuable cane bottom kitchen chairs. They have served us well and will probably have to do for several more years. The problem is that one of them has a hole in the seat. None of the children will confess but it looks like some sharp object went through the seat. Since the chairs are not expensive and will have to be replaced in the future, I don't want to spend a lot of money having them all recaned so they match. Can the cane just be repaired?
A. Sometimes if only a strand or two of the cane is broken, new strands can be rewoven and glued into place from beneath the seat. Even a larger area can be patched but a patch is a patch is a patch and there will always be a weak spot where there is a patch. Putting cushions in the chairs will help spread the load and might lengthen the life of a patch.
You don't necessarily have to have all the chairs recaned to have them match. A good finisher can usually stain or shade new cane to match old cane, saving you much more than the cost of his work by not having to get all new cane.
Q. After a recent dinner party I discovered that one of my candles had dripped onto the surface of my mahogany buffet. I am scared to touch it without some advice. How do I remove the wax without severely damaging the finish and will anything need to done to the area after I get it off?
A. Candle wax usually does not reach a temperature sufficient to severely damage a sound finish, especially if it has been well cared for and protected on a regular basis. Carefully scrape as much of the wax up from the surface as you can using a rubber kitchen spatula or even the edge of a credit card but be very careful with the credit card. They can be sharp and damage the finish if it is older or soft. After you have scraped as much wax from the surface as you dare, clean up the rest of it using a terry cloth towel or wash cloth with some naphtha on it. It may require some vigorous rubbing so check under your work frequently and stop if you see any damage to the finish. At that point call in a furniture technician to finish the job. If you successfully remove all the candle wax, then apply a good coat of furniture paste wax such as Kiwi Bois or Fiddes to the entire top, available on line at http://hummercap.com
Fred Taylor's new book "HOW TO BE A FURNITURE DETECTIVE" is now available for $18.95 plus $2.00 S & H. Send check or money order for $20.95 to Fred Taylor, PO Box 215, Crystal River, FL 34423.
Fred and Gail Taylor's video, "IDENTIFICATION OF OLDER & ANTIQUE FURNITURE", ($29.95 includes S & H) is also available at the same address. For more information call (800) 387-6377, fax (352) 563-2916, or e-mail fmtaylor@aol.com.
If you have any questions, you can Email us at antshoppe@aol.com
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PO Box 2175, Keystone Heights, FL 32656-2175
Phone: (352)475-1679 Fax: (352)475-5326
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Antique Shoppe Newspaper